Unit I

Chapter 1: Cosmetics - Regulatory Aspects

1.1.

Cosmetics - Regulatory Aspects

13

1.1.1.

Introduction and Definition of Cosmetic Products as per Indian and EU Regulation

13

1.1.2.

Ideal Properties of Cosmetics

14

1.1.3.

Classification of Cosmetics

14

1.1.4.

Cosmeceuticals

17

1.2.

Cosmetics Regulation as per Drug and Cosmetic Act

21

1.3.

Indian Regulatory Requirements for Labeling of Cosmetics

22

1.3.1.

Packaging of Cosmetics

22

1.3.2.

Labeling Regulations

24

1.4.

Regulatory Provisions Relating to Import of Cosmetics

27

1.4.1.

Introduction

27

1.4.2.

Purpose of  Registration

28

1.4.3.

Registration Procedure

28

1.4.4.

Grant of Import Registration Certificate

29

1.4.5.

Validity of Import Registration Certificate

30

1.4.6.

Procedure for Import of Cosmetic Products

32

1.4.7.

Adulterated, Misbranded and Spurious Cosmetics

36

1.5.

Regulatory Provisions Relating to Manufacture of Cosmetics

38

1.5.1.

Introduction

38

1.5.2.

Application for Grant of License

38

1.5.3.

Conditions for Obtaining License

40

1.5.4.

Loan License

42

1.5.5.

Requirements for Factory Layout

45

1.5.6.

Prohibition of Manufacture and Sale of Certain Cosmetics

53

1.5.7.

Offences and Penalties

55

1.6.

Exercise

56

Unit II

Chapter 2: Cosmetics - Biological Aspects

2.1.

Skin

60

2.1.1.

Introduction

60

2.1.2.

Structure of Skin

60

2.1.3.

Functions of Skin

62

2.2.

Common Problems Related to Skin

63

2.2.1.

Introduction

63

2.2.2.

Physiological Consideration of Skin in Relation to Cosmetic Applications

63

2.2.3.

Types of Skin

64

2.2.4.

Dry Skin

65

2.2.4.1.

Pathophysiology of Dry Skin

66

2.2.4.2.

Causes of Dry Skin

66

2.2.4.3.

Symptoms of Dry Skin

68

2.2.4.4.

Treatment of Dry Skin

68

2.2.5.

Contact Dermatitis

69

2.2.5.1.

Causes of Contact Dermatitis

70

2.2.5.2.

Symptoms of Contact Dermatitis

70

2.2.5.3.

Tests for Contact Dermatitis

70

2.2.5.4.

Prevention of Contact Dermatitis

71

2.2.5.5.

Treatment of Contact Dermatitis

71

2.2.6.

Acne

71

2.2.6.1.

Pathophysiology of Acne

71

2.2.6.2.

Types of Acne

72

2.2.6.3.

Causes of Acne

72

2.2.6.4.

Treatment of Acne

72

2.2.7.

Pigmentation

74

2.2.7.1.

Hyperpigmentation

74

2.2.7.2.

Hypopigmentation

75

2.2.7.3.

Treatment of Pigmentation

75

2.2.8.

Prickly Heat

76

2.2.8.1.

Pathophysiology of Prickly Heat

76

2.2.8.2.

Types of Prickly Heat

76

2.2.8.3.

Causes of Prickly Heat

76

2.2.8.4.

Symptoms of Prickly Heat

77

2.2.8.5.

Treatment of Prickly Heat

77

2.2.9.

Wrinkles

77

2.2.9.1.

Pathophysiology of Wrinkles

78

2.2.9.2.

Causes of Wrinkles

78

2.2.9.3.

Symptoms of Wrinkles

79

2.2.9.4.

Treatment of Wrinkles

80

2.2.10.

Body Odour

81

2.2.10.1.

Pathophysiology of Body Odour

81

2.2.10.2.

Causes of Body Odour

81

2.2.10.3.

Symptoms of Body Odour

82

2.2.10.4.

Prevention and Treatment of Body Odour

82

2.3.

Hair

82

2.3.1.

Introduction

82

2.3.2.

Structure of Hair

83

2.3.3.

Functions of Hair

85

2.3.4.

Hair Growth Cycle

86

2.3.5.

Common Problems Related to Hair

87

2.4.

Common Problems Associated with Oral Cavity

88

2.5.

Cleansing and Care Needs for Different Body Parts

90

2.5.1.

Introduction

90

2.5.2.

Cleansing and Care Needs for Face

90

2.5.3.

Cleansing and Care Needs for Eye Lids

92

2.5.4.

Cleansing and Care Needs For Lips

94

2.5.5.

Cleansing and Care Needs of Hands

97

2.5.6.

Cleansing and Care of Feet

99

2.5.7.

Cleansing and Care Needs for Nail

101

2.5.8.

Cleansing and Care Needs for Scalp

104

2.5.9.

Cleansing and Care Needs for Neck

107

2.5.10.

Cleansing and Care Needs for Body

108

2.5.11.

Cleansing and Care Needs for Under-Arm

110

2.6.

Exercise

114

Unit III

Chapter 3: Formulation Building Blocks

3.1.

Building Blocks for Different Product Formulations of Cosmetics/Cosmeceuticals

118

3.1.1.

Introduction

118

3.1.2.

Ideal Properties of Cosmetic Excipients

118

3.1.3.

Examples of Cosmetic Excipients

119

3.2.

Surfactants

119

3.2.1.

Introduction

119

3.2.2.

Classification of Surfactants

119

3.2.3.

Applications of Surfactants

121

3.3.

Emollients

123

3.3.1.

Introduction

123

3.3.2.

Classification of Emollients

123

3.3.3.

Applications of Emollients

124

3.4.

Rheological Additives (Thickeners)

125

3.4.1.

Introduction

125

3.4.2.

Classification of Rheological Additives

126

3.4.3.

Applications of Rheological Additives

127

3.5.

Anti-Microbial Used as Preservatives

128

3.5.1.

Introduction

128

3.5.2.

Ideal Properties of Preservatives

128

3.5.3.

Classification of Preservatives

129

3.5.4.

Parabens

130

3.5.5.

Phenoxyethanol

131

3.5.6.

Benzalkonium Chloride

132

3.5.7.

Chlorhexidine

133

3.5.8.

Factors Affecting Microbial Preservative Efficacy

134

3.5.9.

Merits of Anti-Microbial Preservatives

135

3.5.10.

Demerits of Anti-Microbial Preservatives

135

3.6.

Humectants

136

3.6.1.

Introduction

136

3.6.2.

Ideal Properties of Humectants

136

3.6.3.

Examples of Humectants

136

3.6.4.

Applications of Humectants

137

3.7.

Creams

138

3.7.1.

Introduction

138

3.7.2.

Classification of Creams

138

3.7.3.

Basic Raw Materials used in the Formulation of Creams

140

3.8.

Moisturising Cream

141

3.8.1.

Introduction

141

3.8.2.

Advantages of a Moisturising Cream

142

3.8.3.

Disadvantages of a Moisturising Cream

142

3.8.4.

Role of a Moisturising Cream

142

3.8.5.

Building Blocks for Formulation of a Moisturising Cream

143

3.8.6.

Preparation of a Moisturising Cream

145

3.8.7.

Evaluation of a Moisturising Cream

146

3.9.

Vanishing Cream

147

3.9.1.

Introduction

147

3.9.2.

Advantages of a Vanishing Cream

147

3.9.3.

Disadvantages of a Vanishing Cream

148

3.9.4.

Role of a Vanishing Cream

148

3.9.5.

Building Blocks for Formulation of a Vanishing Cream

149

3.9.6.

Preparation of a Vanishing Cream

150

3.9.7.

Evaluation of a Vanishing Cream

151

3.10.

Cold Cream

152

3.10.1.

Introduction

152

3.10.2.

Advantages of a Cold Cream

153

3.10.3.

Disadvantages of a Cold Cream

153

3.10.4.

Role of a Cold Cream

154

3.10.5.

Building Blocks for Formulation  of a Cold Cream

155

3.10.6.

Preparation of a Cold Cream

155

3.10.7.

Evaluation of a Cold Cream

156

3.11.

Shaving Cream

156

3.11.1.

Introduction

156

3.11.2.

Building Blocks for Formulation of a Shaving Cream

157

3.11.3.

Preparation of a Shaving Cream

158

3.11.4.

Evaluation of a Shaving Cream

159

3.12.

Lipstick

160

3.12.1.

Introduction

160

3.12.2.

Building Blocks for Formulation  of a Lipstick

160

3.12.3.

Preparation of a Lipstick

162

3.12.4.

Evaluation of a Lipstick

162

3.13.

Shampoo

165

3.13.1.

Introduction

165

3.13.2.

Types of Shampoos

165

3.13.3.

Advantages of a Shampoo

166

3.13.4.

Disadvantages of a Shampoo

166

3.13.5.

Role of a Shampoo

166

3.13.6.

Building Blocks for Formulation of a Shampoo

167

3.13.7.

Preparation of a Shampoo

168

3.13.8.

Evaluation of a Shampoo

169

3.14.

Toothpaste

169

3.14.1.

Introduction

169

3.14.2.

Types of Toothpastes

170

3.14.3.

Advantages of a Toothpaste

170

3.14.4.

Disadvantages of a Toothpaste

171

3.14.5.

Role of a Toothpaste

171

3.14.6.

Building Blocks for Formulation of a Toothpaste

172

3.14.7.

Preparation of a Toothpaste

173

3.14.8.

Evaluation of a Toothpaste

176

3.15.

Soaps and Syndet Bars

177

3.15.1.

Introduction

177

3.15.2.

Types of Soaps

178

3.15.3.

Advantages of Soaps

178

3.15.4.

Disadvantages of Soaps

179

3.15.5.

Role of Soaps

179

3.15.6.

Role of Syndet Bars

180

3.15.7.

Building Blocks for Formulation of Soaps and Syndet Bars

180

3.15.8.

Preparation of Soaps and Syndet Bars

181

3.15.9.

Evaluation of Soaps and Syndet Bars

182

3.16.

Exercise

183

Chapter 4: Perfumes and Controversial Ingredients

4.1.

Perfumes

189

4.1.1.

Introduction

189

4.1.2.

Classification of Perfumes

189

4.1.3.

Role of Perfumes in Cosmetics

193

4.1.4.

Formulation of Perfumes

193

4.1.5.

Manufacturing of Perfumes

194

4.1.6.

Evaluation of Perfumes

195

4.1.7.

Perfume Ingredients Listed as Allergens in EU Regulation

195

4.2.

Controversial Ingredients

196

4.2.1.

Introduction

196

4.2.2.

Parabens

197

4.2.3.

Formaldehyde Liberators

198

4.2.4.

Dioxane

200

4.3.

Exercise

201

Unit IV

Chapter 5: Design of Cosmeceutical Products

5.1.

Sun Protection

203

5.1.1.

Introduction

203

5.1.2.

Sunscreens

204

5.1.3.

Ideal Properties of Sunscreen Agent

204

5.1.4.

Classification and Mechanism of Action of Sunscreens

205

5.1.4.1.

Topical Sunscreens

205

5.1.4.2.

Systemic Sunscreens

207

5.1.5.

Importance of Sunscreens in Cosmetics

207

5.1.6.

Formulation and Preparation of Sunscreens

208

5.1.7.

Evaluation of Sunscreens

212

5.1.8.

Regulatory Aspects of Sunscreens

214

5.2.

Addressing Dry Skin Through Cosmeceutical Formulations

216

5.3.

Addressing Acne Through Cosmeceutical Formulations

218

5.4.

Addressing Pigmentation Through Cosmeceutical Formulations

220

5.5.

Addressing Wrinkles Through Cosmeceutical Formulations

224

5.6.

Addressing Prickly Heat Through Cosmeceutical Formulations

225

5.7.

Addressing Body Odour Through Cosmeceutical Formulations

226

5.7.1.

Introduction

226

5.7.2.

Deodorants

227

5.7.3.

Anti-Perspirants

229

5.8.

Addressing Dandruff Through Cosmeceutical Formulations

231

5.8.1.

Introduction

231

5.8.2.

Causes of Dandruff

232

5.8.3.

Symptoms of Dandruff

233

5.8.4.

Effects of Dandruff

233

5.8.5.

Treatment of Dandruff

234

5.8.6.

Formulation Components of Anti-Dandruff Shampoo

235

5.8.7.

Method of Preparation of Anti-Dandruff Shampoo

236

5.8.8.

Evaluation of Anti-Dandruff Shampoo

238

5.9.

Hair Colourants or Hair Dyes

240

5.9.1.

Introduction

240

5.9.2.

Types of Hair Dye

241

5.9.3.

Mechanism of Action of Hair Dye

243

5.9.4.

Formulation Components of Hair Dye

244

5.9.5.

Method of Preparation of Hair Dye

247

5.9.6.

Evaluation of Hair Dye

249

5.9.7.

p-Phenylene Diamine (PPD)-based Hair Dye

249

5.10.

Addressing Dental Problems Through Cosmeceutical Formulations

252

5.10.1.

Dental Cavities

252

5.10.2.

Bleeding Gums

254

5.10.3.

Mouth Odour

256

5.10.4.

Sensitive Teeth

258

5.10.5.

Cosmetic Formulations for Dental Problems

260

5.11.

Exercise

270

Unit V

Chapter 6: Herbal Cosmetics

6.1.

Herbal Cosmetics

274

6.1.1.

Introduction

274

6.1.2.

Role of Herbs in Cosmetics

274

6.1.3.

Advantages of Herbal Cosmetics

275

6.1.4.

Disadvantages of Herbal Cosmetics

275

6.1.5.

Scope and New Trends of Herbal Cosmetics

276

6.1.6.

Classification of Herbal Cosmetics

277

6.2.

Herbal Ingredients Used in Hair Care

278

6.2.1.

Introduction

278

6.2.2.

Formulations of Hair Care using Herbal Ingredients

283

6.2.2.1.

Herbal Shampoo

283

6.2.2.2.

Herbal Hair Oil

286

6.2.2.3.

Herbal Hair Colour

287

6.2.2.4.

Herbal Hair Pack

289

6.3.

Herbal Ingredients Used in Skin Care

290

6.3.1.

Introduction

290

6.3.2.

Formulations of Skin Care using Herbal Ingredients

294

6.3.2.1.

Herbal Face Wash

295

6.3.2.2.

Herbal Face Mask

297

6.3.2.3.

Herbal Creams and Lotions

298

6.4.

Herbal Ingredients Used in Oral Care

299

6.4.1.

Introduction

299

6.4.2.

Formulations of Oral Care using Herbal Ingredients

302

6.4.2.1.

Herbal Toothpaste

302

6.4.2.2.

Herbal Mouthwash

304

6.5.

Review of Guidelines for Herbal Cosmetics by COSMOS

305

6.5.1.

Introduction

305

6.5.2.

Origin and Processing of Ingredients

305

6.5.3.

Composition of Total Product

312

6.5.4.

Storage, Manufacturing and Packaging

314

6.5.5.

Environmental Management

315

6.5.6.

Labelling and Communication

315

6.5.7.

Inspection, Certification and Approval

316

6.5.8.

Guidelines by COSMOS with Respect to Preservatives

319

6.5.9.

Guidelines by COSMOS with Respect to Emollients

321

6.5.10.

Guidelines by COSMOS with Respect to Foaming Agents

324

6.5.11.

Guidelines by COSMOS with Respect to Emulsifiers

327

6.5.12.

Guidelines by COSMOS with Respect to Rheology Modifiers

329

6.6.

Challenges in Formulating Herbal Cosmetics

332

6.7.

Exercise

339